Hungary

            There is no place like Hungary (Magyarország). Situated in the very heart of Europe, this kidney-shaped country can claim a unique place in the continent's soul. Doubters need only listen to the music of Franz Liszt and Béla Bartók, view the romantic Danube River as it dramatically splits Budapest in two or taste the nation's unique (and paprika-infused) cuisine to be convinced. Hungary's impact on Europe's history and development has been far greater than its present size and population would suggest. Hungarians, who call themselves Magyars, speak a language and form a culture unlike any other in the region - a distinction that has been both a source of pride and an obstacle for more than 1100 years.

Hungary is the best place to enter both Central and Eastern Europe. While some of its neighbours may have more dramatic scenery or older and more important monuments, Hungary abounds in things to see and do, and those with special interests - fishing, horse riding, botany, bird-watching, cycling, thermal spas, Jewish culture - will find a treasure-trove here. Under the old communist regime, most of the government's focus and money went to Budapest. As a result, foreign visitors rarely ventured beyond this splendid city on the Danube River, except on a day trip to the Danube Bend or to Lake Balaton. These places should be visited, of course, but don't ignore other towns and regions off the beaten track: the tanya világ (farm world) of the Southern Plain, ethnically rich Northeastern Hungary, the Villány Hills in Southern Transdanubia covered in vineyards and the traditional Őrség region in the far west.

The '90s were not a stellar time for the reborn republic. Its economic development was in limbo and serious economic problems affected all aspects of daily life. Thankfully, those days are past and many now view Hungary, with its intelligent, hard-working populace, and rich and vibrant culture, as the star performer and most interesting destination of the new Europe.

 

Straddling the romantic Danube River, with the Buda Hills to the west and the start of the Great Plain to the east, Budapest is the most beautiful city in central Europe. And the human legacy is just as remarkable as Mother Nature’s. Architecturally, Budapest is a gem, with enough baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and art nouveau (or Secessionist) buildings to satisfy anyone’s appetite. With parks brimming with attractions, museums filled with treasures, pleasure boats sailing up and down the scenic Danube and Turkish-era thermal baths belching steam, the Hungarian capital is a delight both by day and by night. The food and wine are excellent, cheap and in abundance and the nightlife is hot. Indeed, in recent years, Budapest has taken on the role of the region’s party town, especially in the warmer months when outdoor entertainment areas called kertek (literally ‘gardens’) heave with party makers.

        

Esztergom, 25km west of Visegrád and 66km from Budapest via Rte 11, is one of Hungary's most historical cities and, as the effective 'capital' of the Danube Bend, well worth a visit. For more than 1000 years it has been the seat of Roman Catholicism; the archbishop of Esztergom is the primate - the highest ranking cleric - of Hungary. The country's first king, St Stephen, was born here in 975, and it was a royal seat from the late 10th to the mid-13th centuries. As a result, Esztergom has both great spiritual and temporal significance for Hungarians.

 

 

Situated on the Danube's abrupt loop, Visegrád (from the Slavic words for 'high castle') is the most beautiful section and the very symbol of the Bend. Most tourists, however, don't come here for the views (which are reason enough to visit) but rather to explore what remains of the town's history - its Renaissance palace and accompanying citadel.

 

Lake Balaton, often called the 'Hungarian Sea', is the country's substitute for a coastline, a place where many locals (and Germans) escape Europe's summer heat. At 78km long, 15km across at its widest point and covering 600 sq km, it's Europe's largest body of fresh water and an aqua-playground big enough to cater to most holiday-makers.

The lake itself is a tale of two shores. Its southern coast is essentially only long resorts: from Siófok to Fonyód you'll find high-rise hotels, small sandy beaches jammed with sun worshippers, tacky stalls selling imitation wares and greasy lángos (deep-fried treats), and clubs attracting international DJs and night-crawlers. Here the water is shallowest and safest for kids (the lake's depth averages only 3m and the temperature is 26°C May to October).

Its northern side is as refined as its southern is brash, with pretty towns such as Keszthely, Badacsony and Balatonfüred catering to a more mature crowd looking for some quiet respite alongside splashing about in the sun. Tihany, a unique peninsula cutting the lake almost in half, is home to an important historical church and some of Balaton's deepest beaches while the thermal lake at Hévíz (Europe's largest) is a natural wonder. Hills create a backdrop to the north's reedy beaches, and vineyards, woods, castles and hiking trails all vie for their rightful land space. Easy day trips from the lake include historic towns such as Veszprém and Székesfehérvár, where seminal moments at the very beginning of Magyar settlement took place.

Balaton won't appeal to everyone's tastes with its shallow, silky waters, but when its surface appears a kaleidoscope of colours, changing shades before your very eyes, it's easy to fall under its hypnotic spell like so many artists and holiday-makers have over the centuries.